Artesonraju
Overview
Artesonraju is a beautiful pyramidal mountain that you may recognize from the Paramount Pictures movie logo. It is a technical and difficult mountain to climb, with steep hard ice that can be mixed with soft, deep, unstable snow and several serious ice fields and is only recommended for experienced and confident climbers. In recent years, Artesonraju has unfortunately been the scene of several serious accidents.
The two routes to climb Artesonraju are:
– Via Paron Valley Southeast Ridge 5 days – Via Santa Cruz Valley Northeast Ridge 6 days
Conditions in Artesonraju are often difficult and unstable. In general, each year the route on one of the faces turns out to be dangerous with a high risk of avalanches and climbing is only attempted from the alternative route. The decision as to which route is safest to climb often cannot be made until a few weeks or even days before the climb. When planning your trip, you should allow for extra days in case the climb is moved to the longer northeast route for safety.
Included
- Transport: From Huaraz to the starting point of your activity, and from the end point of your activity back to Huaraz. We use private transport, minivans and other types of cars, depending on the size of the group.
- Guide: Qualified and experienced mountain guide who speaks Spanish and English.
- Cook: A professional cook who is trained to prepare healthy dishes in a hygienic manner, depending on the size of the group.
- Muleteers: In charge of taking the donkeys with our materials and backpacks, taking care of them and guiding them. (depending on the expedition we are replaced by porters / people who load things)
- Donkeys: The number of donkeys provided depends on the size of the group. The donkeys carry tents, food, climbing rope to base camp and back, but you must bring your own personal equipment. (depending on the expedition we are replaced by porters / people who load things)
- Meals: Breakfast, packed lunch and dinner.
- Equipment: Good quality high mountain tent, sleeping mattress, ropes, carabiners, dining tent (depending on the size of the group), table and chairs, first aid kit, stove, crockery and kitchen utensils. We can also provide you with personal mountain equipment if you do not have one.
- Entrance fee: for the national park.
Exclude
- First breakfast, last dinner, soft or alcoholic beverages, medical treatment, travel insurance, tips, additional expenses as a result of leaving the expedition early, additional expenses as a result of rescue or emergency evacuation.
What to Bring
- Mountain backpack (65 liters).
- Sleeping bag (-25 C)
- Walking poles if you have knee problems.
- Mountaineering boots – If you don’t have one, we provide it for you.
- Crampons – If you don’t have one, we provide it for you.
- Ice ax – If you don’t have one, we provide it for you.
- Helmet – If you don’t have one, we provide it for you.
- Harness – If you don’t have one, we provide it for you.
- Headlamp (with spare batteries)
- Sun protection: sunscreen (minimum factor 40), hat, good sunglasses
- Well used in mountain boots or trekking shoes
- Comfortable clothing: T-shirt (quick-drying or merino wool recommended), trekking pants or leggings, sweater, wool trekking socks, underwear, long thermal underwear, fleece, gloves, hat, buff.
- Down jacket quality 650 to 900 thermal degrees
- Waterproof jacket and pants (Gore-Tex recommended)
- Gore-Tex gloves
- Bottle of water 1 liter, We will provide you with boiled and purified water
- Toilet paper, personal toiletries, small towel
- Extra snacks and money
Are you missing something? We can provide the detailed program and everything you need for a great day of expeditions, check each trip for detailed information on prices and offers we have for groups and dates or contact us for a personalized trip and you will be able to fully enjoy. The personal technical equipment that we can provide you at no cost will depend on whether we have an available warehouse, which is why it is important to book in advance and check what we can provide you.
Tour Amenities






Tour Plan
- Day 1: Huaraz ā Laguna Paron
Drive from Huaraz to Caraz and then to Laguna Paron (31/2 to 4 hours) and then we hike around the lake to camp at the head of the lake (1.5 hours) or climb above the lake another hour to a nice campsite in trees next to a stream (4200 m).
- Day 2: Laguna Paron ā High Camp
We climb a moraine ridge and then up the glacier to the High Camp (5100m).
- Day 3: High Camp ā Summit - High Camp
We left camp early for the climb to the summit. The average incline of the route is between 45Ā° and up to 70Ā° with some inclines as high as 85Ā°. Often the climb begins with long stretches of soft snow before turning to hard ice as altitude increases. The slope becomes steeper on the last two 100m courses which require belays. 12 to 14 hours for the day.
- Day 4: High Camp ā Laguna Paron
Descend to base camp at Laguna Paron
- Day 5: PerĆ³n Lagoon ā Huaraz
Walk around the lake to meet our transport, which will take us back to Huaraz.
- Day 1: Huaraz ā Cashapampa ā Llamacorral
Drive 2 1/2 hours from Huaraz to Cashapampa (2900m). Our equipment is loaded onto donkeys and we hike for 4 to 5 hours through the Santa Cruz Valley to camp near the river at Llamacorral (3750m).
- Day 2: Llamacorral ā Base Camp
An easy 5 hour hike through the valley following the Santa Cruz route before turning off and making a short climb to Artesonraju Base Camp (4250m) which is almost at the base of Artesonraju.
- Day 3: Base Camp ā Moraine Camp
Walk through some low scrub and trees to reach a moraine ridge. We climb the moraine ridge (sometimes slippery and steep) for about 5 hours until we reach the moraine camp (5000m).
- Day 4: Moraine Camp ā High Camp
A short climb through the rocks to reach the glacier. Around 4 hours climbing the glacier on 35Ā° to 40Ā° slopes negotiating around cracks and exposed ice bridges. There is a steeper short slope to climb just before reaching High Camp (5600 m).
- Day 5: High Camp ā Summit - Moraine Camp - Base Camp Summit day.
An early start, starting with climbing an ice wall up to 65Ā°, followed by a gentle incline leading to the final ice wall around 280m of 70Ā° to 80Ā° slope. After the ice wall there is a false summit which involves negotiating around an exposed crevasse to reach the true summit (6025m). Descend the same route to base camp or stop at Moraine Camp for the night. Around 12 to 14 hours.
- Day 6: Base Camp ā Cashapampa ā Huaraz
Trek to Cashapampa from 7 to 8 hours where our transport will return us to Huaraz.
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